Ford Motorsports Valve Train Stabilizer
"Stud Girdle valve Covers"
text and photos by Blizzard and Kelly Coffield

XAFalcons May 14 2005
Well, after more than 18 months, we are about to dyno my 400 FMX. We ran into a problem last week that we didn't expect. I have a set of those Ford Motorsport Stud-girdle valve covers and I tried to bolt them on with a set of roller rockers.....no go! We had to take a set of 1" valve cover spacers and mill them down to 5/16" thick to get the covers and rockers to play nice. BTW, the push rods are 9.45" long and we had to step up to a set of 3/8" custom rods.....man, nothing has been easy on this build up.
I plan to post all the specs soon.
Kelly Coffield May 15 2005
The issue to which you refer with the stud girdle valve covers comes up from time to time. I've had a number of people insist to me that they were made to bolt on to iron heads and require a 1/4" spacer for high port heads. I would tell you it's the other way around. I've had about a half a dozen sets of the various versions of those valve covers through my hands and they were all the same in one regard; the stud length and valve cover height was intended for aluminum high port heads series (A3 B3, C3, C302, C302B etc.) and not the 2V or 4V iron heads that have had the pedestals milled. If there were versions of these VCs cut for iron heads, I've never seen one. The valve cover rails on the high port heads are .2" taller (from the rocker stud bosses). If you think about it, this means that the studs would protrude 1/4" further through the VCs on iron heads than the high ports. This creates two problems on iron heads: 1: The one you mention, inadequate rocker clearance. 2. You will likely run the stud through the roof of your acorn nuts when you attempt to tighten them. I was told that Ford use to sell a kit that was merely a 1/4" spacer made from aluminum sheet stock (I have one that was very well made but I can't confirm it's a Ford product) but I have never seen them referenced in the original sales literature. Some people simply use a modern thick (1/4") gasket. IMO, if they are metal core and material that doesn't take a set (neoprene instead of cork for example) you may get away with it. However, you may find that your stud hardware leaks profusely if the gasket relaxes slightly. This will also mean they are probably not doing much to stabilize your valve train. Ford supplied 1/16" paper type gaskets with the kits and recommended gasket sealing not only the gasket but also light application of sealant to the spherical washers between the valve covers and spherical washers. Most racers wouldn't put up with the hassle and this was probably one of the major reasons they were not widely accepted. This issue was sort messy especially since you're probably running mechanical valve train if you feel the need to girdle your valve train and have to deal with this every time you set lash. I blanked .005" urethane gaskets and placed them between the spherical washers. They seal well and just peel off afterwards and you replace them without the mess. IMO, if you use these VCs properly, they're not any more hassle than stud girdles in general. They are a novel performance item from the period and have a very unique appearance in addition to there functionality. Good luck and hope this helps.
Blizzard Aug 16 2007
I followed this thread and had a set of 1/4" plates cut. I installed them using a neoprene gasket below, and a cork one on top (because the parts monkeys only had one set of each.) with the 1/4 inch plates, the bolts didn't reach thru far enouch for the acorns to start. I then tried without any spacers, and the VC sat on the jam nut I used above the poly lock.
So I looked at my old Ford Motorsport Cataloge for guidance. I think these covers were designed for the rollerized factory rocker using just a self locking 7/16 nut. No mention of any spacer plates. Even mentions "For Use with 351C 400 heads, the heads must be machined for 7/16 studs, see page 5..."
I had my buddy burn me a set of 1/8" plates, with the same 2 VC gaskets they seem to work perfectly! I dont really know why they even bother with the VC bolts, By the time you get all the acorn nuts snugged up, the VC bolts are all loose again.
I can't wait for my replacement lifter to come from Mark and Heather so I can put it all back together again.
Interesting that Crane's website recommends that Solid lifters set cold should be set .002 over, while Mark at MME recomends .002 tighter! COLD, which makes sense because the head, even IRON on IRON will expand an thus OPEN the distance between the rocker and valve. Apperantly that was the demise of my lifter, I set the valves .002-.003 OVER! then when the engine warmed up, there was too much clearance, causing the pushrod to tap or bounce on the lifter, and BANG! the snap-ring groove breaks out.
blizz



